ALL AUTOCARS

Toyota Motor Corp.
is hinting that a new sports car might be in the works, meant to fill a gap left by the
retirement of the MR2 two-seater.

“We used to have a lot of sports cars, but not
anymore,” Kazuo Okamoto, executive vice president for R&D, told Automotive News. “So now
we want to try it again.”

Okamoto made the comments after speaking last month about Toyota’s midterm business plan
and said the company must launch more “appealing products” that are “fun to drive.”
Okamoto added that the strategy will involve the “development of a new sports model.”

The presentation was accompanied by a slide show depicting a Lexus sports car along with two other sporty concept cars. One car bears the
Toyota logo on the hood. After
the presentation, Okamoto said there were no concrete plans.

Toyota’s midengined MR2 dates
back to 1984. It was retired this year.

Other sportyish models over the years have included the Celica, discontinued in 2006, and
the Supra, on the road from 1978 to 2002.

Golf GTI W12 concept. It looks like pure show candy: a
642-hp, mid-mounted W12 engine under cartoonish stretched bodywork. Yet not only is it a
driver, complete with a 202-mph top speed, but the company let us put it through its paces
at Gros Dölln in Germany, a former Soviet airbase.

The GTI W12 was commissioned to wow the crowds at this year’s Worthersee GTI festival in
Austria,
but designer Marc Lichte was told that it also must be a full runner. Therefore, it was
built to standards far closer to a prototype, and Lichte had the chance to rummage through
the more exotic reaches of the corporate parts bin.

It’s got Audi RS4 front brakes, a Lamborghini Gallardo back axle, a VW Phaeton six-speed
automatic gearbox and a twin-turbocharged, 6.0-liter W12 engine from the Bentley
Continental sitting where you’d expect to find the groceries in a standard GTI. Vast sill
extensions add six inches of width, while mammoth air intakes (including scoops integrated
into the roof and rear side windows) feed air to the mid-mounted motor.

And it drives almost as nicely as it looks. With drive to the rear wheels only, VW decided
to limit the engine’s torque output to 222 lb-ft in first gear and 331 lb-ft in second.
But from third gear upward, the full 553 lb-ft is available. The official 3.7-second 0-to
-62-mph time makes it quicker than a Gallardo.

It even corners pretty well, certainly considering its short wheelbase and lack of any
kind of stability control. Without the weight of an engine in the front, turn-in is a fair
bit blunter than with a standard GTI, but the big 295 profile tires find plenty of grip,
and the cornering line can be tightened up nicely on the throttle.

Relevance? None whatsoever. You won’t be surprised to hear that VW has no plans to put a
642-hp, mid-engined, rear-drive Golf into production. And it won’t be a U.S.-market
Rabbit, either. That’s not going to stop us from thinking the world would be a more
entertaining place with cars like this in it.

The Opel
Flextreme wagon mates the E-Flex's electric motor and lithium-ion battery pack to a 1.3-
liter diesel engine. The diesel turns a generator for electricity when the battery pack is
drained. The battery, which has a range of 55 kilometers, can also be recharged by
plugging into an electric outlet.

GM claims the powertrain in the E-Flex cuts CO2 emissions to 40 grams per kilometer, well
under the European Union's proposed standard of 120 g/km.

The Flextreme is more than just a showcase for a powertrain. The concept's sleek, modern
design language will influence all future Opel models, said Mark Adams, head of design for
GM Europe.

Among the standout items on the Flextreme concept are a panoramic glass roof, rear-hinged
doors and small cameras in place of rear-view mirrors to cut down on wind resistance.

"This is about showing that you can have a dramatic design statement and technology go
hand in hand," Adams said.

Size wise, the Flextreme fits in between the Opel Astra and Zafira wagons.

GM said a vehicle based on the Flextreme will reach production, but it did not disclose
any timing for that move. GM has set a goal of getting the E-Flex powertrain into
production by 2010.

NORMAL

Symptoms: Blistered, white
insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life

Recommendation:
Check for the correct plug heat range, over advanced ignition timing, lean
fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and insufficient engine
cooling.




WORN
Symptoms:
Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal
color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

Recommendation:
Plugs have been left in the engine tool long. Replace with new plugs of the
same heat range. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule.



CARBON DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Dry
sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting
and hesitation

Recommendation:
Make sure the plug has the correct heat range. Check for a clogged air
filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also check for ignition
system problems




PRE IGNITION
Symptoms:
Melted electrodes. Insulators are white but may be dirty due to misfiring or
flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage.

Recommendation:
Check for the correct plug heat range, over advanced ignition timing, lean
fuel mixture, insuficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.



ASH DEPOSIT
Symptoms: Light
brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from all and/or
fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation
during acceleration.

Recommendation: If excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or
low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion
chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING
Symptoms:
Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion
chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to
form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds.

Recommendation: Install new plugs. Confider using a colder plug if
driving habits warrant



OIL DEPOSITS
Symptoms: Oily
coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings
into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation.

Recommendation:
Correct the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new
plugs.




GAP BRIDGING
Symptoms:
Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate
and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder.

Recommendation:
Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.




DETONATION

Symptoms:
Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can
also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage.

Recommendation:
Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when
setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

Symptoms: May
be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an
incorrect reach (too long) plug.
Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage.

Recommendation:
Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine
and/or install the correct reach plug.

Automobile spark plug electric part generating sparks to ignite an internal combustion engine.

Ceramic insulator: pottery support for the parts that conduct electricity.

Terminal: place where a current-conducting wire is attached.

Spline: hollow channel.

Resistance: device that controls the strength of the current.

Ground electrode: current device that unites the electrodes.

Spark plug gap: space separating the current conductors.

Center electrode: central current conductor.

Gasket: spot where two part join together.

Spark plug body: metal part of the spark plug.

Hex nut: hexagonal piece of metal used to screw in a spark plug.

PROBLEM
A typical spark plug requires 5000 to 25000 volts from the ignition coil before it will fire. The exact firing voltage depends on the plug gap (the wider the gap, the higher the voltage required) and the electrode condition (wear increase voltage requirements) and the operating temperature (a cold plug requires more voltage to fire than a hot one). The spark must occur to coincide with the piston position as it approaches top dead center on its compression stroke. If the spark occurs too soon (over advanced timing), cylinder pressures rise too quickly and peak too early in the cycle resulting in power loss. This can also cause "detonation" to occur. If the spark occurs too late, cylinder pressures peak too late in the cycle also resulting in a loss of power. The by- product of increased compression is the increase in cylinder temperatures. These high temperatures must be managed by suitable plug designs.

The "heat range" of a spark plug determines how hot the plug runs during normal operation. If the heat range is correctly matched to the engine application, the plug will run hot enough under normal driving conditions to burn off fouling deposits before they can cause problems. Likewise, the plug will not get too hot and become a source of ignition causing engine-damaging pre-ignition and detonation. If the heat range is too cool for the application, though, fouling deposits may build up faster than they are burned off. For this reason, always follow the vehicle manufacturer or plug supplier heat range recommendations when selecting a spark plug for a particular application. Two spark plugs may appear to be identical on the outside but have entirely different heat ranges.

Many of today's spark plugs have a very broad heat range because the plug manufacturer uses a copper core or platinum center electrode. Copper is an excellent conductor of heat, so the insulator can be designed to run hotter and burn off fouling deposits without it getting too hot under increased load to cause pre-ignition or detonation. A solid platinum center electrode will also carry heat away from the tip, but not if the electrode only has a platinum tip.

PERFORMANCE ENGINE

Modified engines like nitrous oxide injection, smaller-chambered and free-flowing cylinder heads, engines with high compression ratio or force induction usually necessitate changing plug types or heat ranges. Specific electrode/tip combinations, electrode materials and colder heat ranges to remove the heat can provide measurable gains in power. For example: running extreme boost (more than 18 psi), a big shot of nitrous (more than 100 hp) or high compression (more than 11:1) the cold plug must be selected and plug gaps should be adjusted smaller to ensure proper ignitability with a much denser air;/fuel mixture. The smaller gap withe stock ignition loses a little power but this can mitigate problems until you change to a better ignition coil.

For every 75 to 100 hp you add to your engine, you may go to the next colder step. A hotter heat range is not usually recommended except when severe oil or fuel fouling is occurring. The difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70 degrees C to 100 degrees C from the combustion chamber.

COLD and HOT PLUG

A "hot plug" has longer porcelain insulator nose which exposes more surface area to dissipate heat more slowly. The plugs electrodes must stay hot enough to burn away and self-clean fouling carbon deposits. This keeps the plug temperature higher overall which is ideal for low speed and city driving conditions. However, a plug that is too "hot" can overheat, also causing power loss, detonation, pre-ignition and possible engine damage.

A "cold" plug can be identified by a shorter porcelain insulator nose that minimizes the amount of surface area exposed to the combustion gases therefore having a shorter path to conduct heat out of the electrode and out of the cylinder chamber quickly. For engines with increased cylinder pressures, higher temperatures and greater horsepower, switching to a slightly colder plug can minimize the risk of pre-ignition and detonation if the plug becomes too hot. However the spark plug must achieve its "self-cleaning" temperature where it can burn off fuel and carbon deposits.

An exhaust manifold or header collects the exhaust gases from multiple
cylinders into one pipe. Among all of the after market tuning products, exhaust extractors
are on the top of the list amongst the most cost effective power improvement solutions.

Exhaust manifolds are generally and traditionally simple cast iron units which collect
engine exhaust and deliver it to the exhaust pipe. However, when greater performance is
required, this restrictive tube is often replaced with individual extractor which are tuned for low restriction and improved
performance. There are two distinct types of extractors. Four into two then into one (4-2
-1) and four into one (4-1). The different between these two are 4-1 design is mainly
suited to engines that spend most of their lives revving at high RPM in track circuits.
The 4-2-1 design is more suitable for road use, giving a good usable power band across a
wider RPM range.

Tuned Length Extractors
They work exceptionally well in the high rev range and ideal for drag racing.

TRI-Y Design Extractors
The most common design of extractors, Tri-y extractors give you more power in the
rev range that you use on the street. As a general rule you should
anticipate an increase in power, performance and fuel economy of around 10% under normal
driving conditions.

Tools and Supplies

1. Spark Plugs
2. Socket set with spark plug socket or spark plug wrench
   
3. Torque wrench
4. Rag or paper towels
5. Penetrating oil
6. Wire feeler gauge and gapping tool